Epoxy and other surface overlays have transformed the way Singapore renovates, offering faster, cleaner, and more affordable upgrades. Epoxy overlays can be applied on most firm and solid surfaces, including tricky ones like ceramic and glass. While incredibly versatile, there are some surfaces that simply aren’t suitable for overlaying.
In this guide, we break down where overlays can’t (or shouldn’t) be applied, and why, so you can plan your renovation with realistic expectations.
1. Uneven or Severely Damaged Floors
Epoxy overlays need a flat and stable base to bond properly. If your existing flooring is:
- Uneven or Unscreeded
- The surface is coming out loose
- Heavily Worn or Damaged
2. Wood Flooring/Vinyl
Natural wood expands and contracts especially in wet areas where moisture can be absorbed easily.
Commonly seen Vinyl and parquet floors consist of individual pieces joined together, allowing slight movement as they expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes. These joints and natural flexibility cause shifting, which can make epoxy overlays crack or lift since epoxy requires a solid, stable surface without movement.
However, in dry areas with minimal moisture absorption, applying an overlay on top may still be possible.
Reality Check: Removal or subfloor preparation is usually needed.
3. Painted Surfaces
Surfaces that have been painted — whether with standard wall paint or epoxy paint — may seem like solid bases, but they aren’t suitable for overlays. Here’s why:
Painted layers can absorb moisture, especially in humid conditions, leading to hidden dampness below the surface.
Over time, moisture causes paint to flake or blister, which in turn compromises the adhesion of the overlay, making it unreliable as a base.
Reality Check: Paint should be scraped off or removed before applying any overlay to ensure long-term bonding and durability.
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